Vet Care & House Proofing

Kittens will have received a set of vaccinations and a health visit before they leave your breeder. Savannahs require KILLED vaccinations only and should NOT be inoculated for FELV (Feline Leukemia) and FIP (Feline Infectious Peritonitis). We recommend neutering by the age of six (6) months of age. Savannahs should only be anesthetized with ISOFLOURINE. Other anesthetics have been found to have negative consequences and should be avoided at all costs. One example of such an anesthetic is Ketamine.

When it comes to house proofing there is a lot to think about! Savannahs are highly intense, curious creatures and as a result they will leave no stone unturned. Here is a list of things to check before welcoming your new bundle of energy home:

Ingestion: Savannahs have a knack for eating dangerous objects so make sure that all small objects are behind closed doors. These, in particular, include plastic bags, string, coins, rubber bands, paper clips, twist ties etc. Savannahs are hard on toys, so keep a constant eye to be sure that they are not broken or in danger of breaking. Do NOT let your Savannah play with toys that have small bells inside them, or have small parts that could break off such as tails, ears etc.

Plants: Like any other animal, give Savannahs a plant and they will eat it. Many plants are poisonous for your Savannah. Please visit the PetEducation site for more information on the specifics of plants to avoid.

Household Objects: Electrical cords, toilets (when left up), full bathtubs or buckets, hot stove tops and more are all hazards for your young Savannah. Keep lids down, watch our for your toilet paper (they can make their lifes work to shred the worlds supply) and spray your electric cords with bitter apple. Just as with small children, be cautious of mini-blind cords, medications and small spaces where they can get stuck, or floor vents where a paw can get caught.

Valuables: Savannahs can jump very high and typically like to curl up in the highest spaces they can reach. It behooves you - for the safety of your cat and your knick-knacks, to make sure your valuables are glued down or put away. Museum glue works very well -

Doors, cuboards and drawers: While not all Savannahs develop this behavior, a good majority quickly work out how to open drawers, cuboards and doors. In our home, all the doors and any cuboard and drawer is childlocked. One of our male Savannsh quickly worked out how to get into the pantry, locate and eat the cheerios, pop the lid back on the container, and close the pantry door behind him to cover his tracks!

In-door only: Clearly Savannahs should be inside only pets. Due to their natural curiosity they have a tendancy to spring forth when any opportunity to get outside arises. We strongly recommend that you develop a system to insure that any attempts at escape are thwarted. Often, when a Savannah gets out, they will be taken into a new home by someone who recognises the cat and cannot afford one of their own. We teach our cats to stay inside and the technique has worked very well thus far. One of us will stand on the outside of the door with a leaf blower running on low while the other will open the door. The Savannah tries to run out and we put the blower on full blast. The experience of meeting a strong wind and a loud noise seems to remove any desire to attempt escape again.

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